Sep 15, 2017

Photos and text by Algerina Perna

: Ala, Italy — This Trentino town of about 9,00 inhabitants is bustling with activity. The city bordered Italy and the Austro Hungarian empire in World War I. Also known as velvet town, Ala was renown for its silk velvet weaving beginning in the 1700’s. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Positano, Italy — An ancient Roman villa was found on this picturesque site. One can access the top tiers of Positano by roads which wind precariously up the mountainsides, or by traversing several hundred steps leading from sea level to the higher reaches of the city. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Milan, Italy — Loretta Perna poses for a photograph in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II while admiring the architecture of the shopping center topped with a glass and iron ceiling. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Roncone, Italy — Relatives on my mother’s side of the family are buried in this cemetery in Roncone. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Roncone, Italy — Chiesa di Santo Stefano, the church where my mother, Sylvia Pizzini Perna, attended as a child, is in the town of Roncone. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Roncone, Italy — In my mother, Sylvia Pizzini Perna’s hometown, my cousin, Patrizia Pizzini Cozzio, and Don Celestino Rizzi, the parish priest of Chiesa di Santo Stefano researched records and traced our family genealogy to the 1600Õs, the earliest records that the church possessed. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Roncone, Italy — Relatives on my mother’s side of the family are buried in this cemetery in Roncone. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Trento, Italy — Lina, the current owner of the apartment complex which my mother’s family owned in the 1930’s, walks down a darkened hallway. My mother’s father died there in 1934. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Trento, Italy — Instituto Magistrale “Antonio Rossmini,” the school my mother attended, was just blocks from her home. Students who planned to become teachers attended the school. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Lavis, Italy — Vineyards fill the valley in Lavis between Trento and Bolzano in a region with a German, Austrian and Hungarian history. The view is from Vecchio Sorni, a restaurant serving local cuisine. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Milan, Italy — “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th-century mural painting at Santa Mara delle Grazie. The world renown painting has gone through several restorations. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Milan, Italy — Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II at Piazza del Duomo boasts high-end shops like Prada and Versace. Opened in 1877, it is named after the King of Italy who ruled from 1861 until his death in 1878. Prior to that time, he was King of Sardinia from 1849-1861. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Milan, Italy — The building of the Duomo of Milan commenced in the 13th century and ended in the 19th century with the completion of the facade. Statues filling the niches in this gothic work of art portray biblical and historical figures. The cathedral is crowned with the Little Madonna, a golden statue. Serving as a pigeon perch, a lion in the foreground appears to be guarding the Duomo. The lion is part of a monument in the center of the square honoring Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Milan, Italy — Statues filling the niches in the Duomo of Milan portray biblical and historical figures. The building of this Gothic cathedral commenced in the 13th century and ended in the 19th century with the completion of the facade. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Milan-Italy — Pictured is the underside of Porta Sempione, the city gate of Milan, also known as the Arch of Peace. This Neoclassical arch was completed in 1838. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Torbole, Italy — The seaside town of Torbole is visible from the ferry on Lake Garda at the northern end of the lake where our cousins, Francesca and Donatella took us. At approximately 143 square miles, Lago del Garda is the largest lake in Italy. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi, Italy — Rocco Maggiore, the citadel looming above the town of Assisi, has performed in many capacities since its construction in 1174. From fortress to military barracks and prison, to abandonment in the 1600’s, it’s restoration began in the late 1800’s. In 1972, the fortress became a backdrop for scenes in Zeffirelli’s film, “Brother Sun, Sister Moon.” It is now open for tours and other events. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi, Italy — Rocco Maggiore, the citadel looming above the town of Assisi, has performed in many capacities since its construction in 1174. From fortress to military barracks and prison, to abandonment in the 1600’s, it’s restoration began in the late 1800’s. In 1972, the fortress became a backdrop for scenes in Zeffirelli’s film, “Brother Sun, Sister Moon.” It is now open for tours and other events. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi,Italy — The metal sculpture at right depicts Saint Francis of Assisi in 1204 returning from battle between Perugia and Assisi. The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi in the background was built in his honor for his good works and for founding the Franciscan order in 1181. Born John di Bernardone,his father changed his son’s name to Francisco. After a life of frivolity and extravagance, he went to war. After experiencing visions of Jesus Christ, he completely altered his lifestyle. He died in 1224. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi, Italy — Rocco Maggiore, the citadel looming above Assisi has performed in many capacities since its construction in 1174. From fortress to military barracks and prison, to abandonment in the 1600’s, it’s restoration began in the late 1800’s. In 1972, the fortress became a backdrop for scenes in Zeffirelli’s film, “Brother Sun, Sister Moon.” It is now open for tours and other events. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi,Italy — The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is surrounded by farmland and an olive tree grove in the foreground. Named and built for St. Francis, born Giovanni Francesco di Bernardone, the Basilica contains his remains. St. Francis preached poverty and love of all creatures and is often portrayed with animals at his feet. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi,Italy — Like many homes throughout Italy, the stone wall of Hotel Pallota on Via S. Rufino is decorated with potted flowers. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi, Italy — An unusual assemblage of images hang in a cabinet on street wall. Inside the shadow box a sign say, “Il Moderno e Il Cinema.” (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi, Italy — The Temple of Minerva at right (tower and columns) in the Province of Perugia on Piazza del Commune was built in 1539. The Italian name of the church is Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. The Roman temple which was originally dedicated to Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, is now a Roman Catholic church dedicated to Mary, the mother of Jesus Christ. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Assisi, Italy — Winding cobblestone streets lead under archways and over hills and to one of the several churches in the Chiesa Nuova, built in 1615. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — The of Neptune and Amphitrite survived the catastrophic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79 which buried the city with boiling mud that transformed into stone. The first excavations began in 1738 under King Charles of Naples. In Roman mythology Neptune is the god of the sea. In Greek mythology, Amphitrite is a sea goddess and wife of Poseidon. The Romans renamed Poseidon as Neptune. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — A tour guide walks down an ancient stone street in Herculaneum, a city that was buried in boiling mud from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79. Located in the Campania region of Italy, the excavated city is identified with Hercules, a hero in both Greek and Roman mythology. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — A tour group visits the excavated ruins of the city of Herculaneum which was buried by boiling mud in AD 79 from Mt. Vesuvius’s eruption. The first excavation of the city began in 1738 under King Charles of Naples. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — This fresco depicting Hercules in red survived the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79 which covered the city in boiling mud. The fresco is in the College of the Augustali, a religious center worshiping Augustus, which when excavated was partially intact centuries after the eruption. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — An atrium of an ancient home was covered in boiling mud from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79. The sculpted white marble discs between the columns depict satyrs and theatre masks. The first excavation of the city began in 1738 under the King of Naples. The city was preserved because it was covered in boiling mud which then turned to stone & was later chipped away by excavators. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — The mosaic-covered nymphaeum which housed statues of nymphs is located in the atrium of an affluent home. The home also houses a mosaic of Neptune and Amphitrite on the adjacent wall. Part of this dwelling survived the catastrophic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79 which buried the city with boiling mud that transformed into stone. The first excavations began in 1738 under King Charles of Naples. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — The fresco at left which depicts Hercules in red survived the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79 which covered the city in boiling mud. The fresco is in the College of the Augustali, a religious center worshiping Augustus. The first excavation of the city began in 1738 under King Charles of Naples. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — The city was buried under boiling mud in AD 79 when Mt. Vesuvius erupted. The first excavation of the city began in 1738 under the King of Naples. Mt. Vesuvius is 4.4 miles from the city. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — In the foreground are the ruins from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79. Mt. Vesuvius at right in the background is 4.4 miles from the city. The first excavation of the city began in 1738 under the King of Naples. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Herculaneum, Italy — In the foreground are the ruins from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79. Mt. Vesuvius which looms in the background at right is 4.4 miles from the city. The first excavation of the city began in 1738 under the King of Naples. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Sorrento, Italy — Several shrines dedicated to Mary, the mother of Jesus Christ, are imbedded in exterior walls throughout Italy. From 1929 under Mussolini and Pope Pius XI until this year, Roman Catholicism was the state religion. On February 18, Italy and the Vatican signed a concordat changing the status which removed Catholicism as the state religion. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Positano, Italy — Hotels, shops and homes are tucked into the Lattari Mountains in Positano facing the Gulf of Naples. An ancient Roman villa was found on this picturesque site. Some sources say the area grew into a town in the 9th century after the founding of a Benedictine abbey. Through the centuries the town went through periods of fortune and misfortune with pirate attacks, various wars and economic depression. In the mid-1950’s the town became a tourist attraction and was described by American author John Steinbeck as a “dream place.” (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Amalfi Coast, Italy — Positano is just around the bend on the Amalfi Coast bordering the Gulf of Naples. The Amalfi Coast is 31miles along the southern edge of the Sorrentine Peninsula in the Campania region. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Positano, Italy — An ancient Roman villa was found on this picturesque site. One can access the top tiers of Positano by roads which wind precariously up the mountainsides, or by traversing several hundred steps leading from sea level to the higher reaches of the city. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Capri, Italy — Taken with its beauty, the first Roman emperor Caesar Augustus, acquired the island of Capri, pictured, by trading the island of Ischia for it. The exchange was made with the city of Naples in 29 BC. In a grotto on the island, archaeologists found Neolithc tombs containing amulets. The Neolithic age spanned the period from 6000-2000 BC. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Capri, Italy — Capri is a popular tourist destination. Taken with its beauty, the first Roman emperor Caesar Augustus acquired the island of Capri by trading the island of Ischia for it. The exchange was made with the city of Naples in 29 BC. In a grotto on the island, archaeologists found Neolithc tombs containing amulets. The Neolithic age spanned the period from 6000-2000 BC. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Napes, Italy — Throughout Italy in towns large and small, sculptures adorn buildings and piazzas. A winged boy carrying a torch perched upon a lion guards one side of the entrance to the Camera Di Commercio building on Via W. Aspreno. Algerina Perna

: Rome, Italy — The Roman Forum was a multi-purpose gathering place for public meetings, legal courts, gladiator combat and merchantry in an open market. It contained many important temples and structures. At right is the Temple of Saturn. The forum hosted both secular and religious events. The church in the background is Santi Luca e Martina, and was dedicated to the martyred Saint Martina who was killed during the reign of Emperor Alexander Severus in 228 AD. The church was built in 625 by Pope Honorius I. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Rome, Italy — The Altare della Patria is also called the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II. This building is a monument to Victor Emmanuel, king of Italy from 1861-1878. Completed in 1925, the building took fourteen years to complete. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Rome, Italy — The Trevi fountain was designed in the 15th century to complete the end of the Aqua Virgo, an ancient Roman aqueduct built in 19 BC which carried water to thermal baths. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Rome, Italy — The Colosseum, an amphitheatre commissioned by the Roman emperor Vespasian between AD 70 and 72 at one time seated about 50,000. Made of stone and concrete, the arena is 620 by 513 feet. Spectators witnessed hand-to-hand combat between gladiators and between animals and men. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Citta di Castillo, Italy — The apse in the church of Citta di Castillo, a Province of Perugia, is painted in the Renaissance style. The town walls of this city in the Tiber valley where the church is located date to the 16th century. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Limone, Italy — Limone, hugs the northwestern shore of Lake Garda. Before tourism, the main commerce of the town was fishing and growing lemons and olive trees. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Desenzano del Garda, Italy — This town of approximately 29,000 people borders Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy. The view of this quaint city street is seen from the town’s medieval castle. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Trento,Italy — The fountain of Neptune on Piazza Duomo offers cool water on a hot day and another beautiful site to see in this land of mythology and history. Neptune, the god of the sea in Roman mythology is a brother to Jupiter and Pluto. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Desenzano del Garda, Italy — This town of approximately 29,000 people borders Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy. The rooftop view of towers and satellite dishes is seen from the town’s medieval castle. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Desenzano del Garda, Italy — A peach-colored home with Persian-influenced architecture borders an inlet of Lake Garda.(Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Desenzano del Garda, Italy — Colorful lights dance on buildings in the town’s main piazza. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

: Desenzano del Garda, Italy — Fishermen cast their lines at Punta San Virgilio, on the southeastern side of Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy, where our cousin Giampiero took us for a boat ride. At approximately 143 square miles, Lake Garda is the largest lake in Italy. (Algerina Perna/Baltimore Sun)

In 2001 my mother, Sylvia Pizzini Perna, gave her children and grandchildren the trip of a lifetime when she took us to Italy to visit her childhood homes and haunts in the Trentino region of northern Italy. This summer, my sister-in-law Loretta Perna and I went on a second trip of a lifetime while treasuring memories of our mother who passed away late last year at 91. We re-traced steps of the 2001 trip, seeing places meaningful to Mom, and cherishing the hospitality of aunts, uncles and cousins.

While in Mom’s hometown of Roncone, our cousin, Patrizia Pizzini Cozzio, and Don Celestino Rizzi, the parish priest at Chiesa di Santo Stefano, researched records and traced our family genealogy to the 1600’s, the earliest records that the church possessed. We also visited another home where Mom had lived in Trento, reflecting in the room where my grandfather had died in 1934. Walking ancient streets while absorbing these profound experiences gave me a greater perspective on the passage of time and greater insight into Mom’s life.

Adding new destinations to the second leg of the trip, Loretta and I ventured south to Assisi; Sorrento; Herculaneum, Positano, Naples and Rome. Italy’s antiquity is written in the architecture of her buildings, from Greek and Roman temples and their accompanying gods, to the ornate Christian churches from the early ADs onward. The Austro-Hungarian influences in northern Italy appear in Tyrolian-style homes and landscapes. Gothic architecture of medieval France stretches skyward in cathedral spires.

Memories of my mother intertwine with Italy’s history as I recall bits and pieces of the factual and mythological stories she related since my childhood. This land of beauty wrapped in medieval walls and both ancient and personal history will always hold a special place in my heart as the land of my ancestors and childhood home of my mother.

aperna@baltsun.com

Postcards from Italy

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