Feb 3, 2017

Photos and text by Amy Davis

: Looking down from the upper level of the East Market into the heart of Lexington Market. into the heart of the east building. Last month, an ambitious plan was announced to build a two-story building sheathed in glass to house the Lexington Market, and then raze the current outmoded 1950s structure, which is dimly lit. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Lou Fleming, Faidley’s Seafood manager, holds a frozen, skinned muskrat, $8, as longtime employee William Robertson looks on. Fleming, who can usually be found shucking oysters at the raw bar, has been with Faidley’s at Lexington Market since 1981. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Signage promotes Lexington Market’s slogan: “World-Famous Since 1782.” After more than two centuries in operation, the market has plans to remake itself again. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Lois Boone, who has worked at Konstant’s, located near the Eutaw Street entrance of Lexington Market, for 30 years, serves Vivian Jenkins, 65, of West Baltimore. Boone said, “I like the people. I’m a people person.” (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Luis Esquivel chops up beef on the grill for cheese steak subs at Andy’s Barbecue in Lexington Market east building. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: David Rosser, 70, who is homeless, is a regular at Lexington market, where he says people know him as “Papa 2.” The market offers fresh food for surrounding neighborhoods that are considered “food deserts,” but urban issues of crime and poverty present challenges for the market, and for its image. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Pedestrians pass Lexington Market on N. Eutaw Street, a busy downtown corridor across the street from the Lexington Market Baltimore Metro subway station.(Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Lexington Market has been a gathering place and institution for shoppers for more than two centuries, but in recent years, crime, drugs and vagrancy have plagued the downtown district outside the market, tarnishing Lexington Market’s image. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Looking down from the upper level at Lexington Market East. In the foreground, at right, is Herling’s Grocery, which does a steady business in lottery tickets. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Ping Chen, left, and Chi Tsang, right, shell shrimp at the Blue Island Malaysian stall, owned by Sabrina Chen. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Young Bae, owner of Dave Green’s Poultry, helps customer James Myers of Fallstaff, left, who has been coming to the market for many years. Bae has owned this poultry stall for 12 years. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Detail of rockfish, left, and red snapper, center and right, on display at Harbor Fish, a stall at Lexington Market East. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Tony Carter at his West Market stall, called Famous World of Computers. Many vendors have left the West Market in the recent years, but Carter, who has been at this location for six years, says he has a steady clientele. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Lexington’s West Market, between Paca and Greene Streets, is 50 percent empty. Many vendors gave up their stalls after Social Security West shut down, taking away their steady lunchtime customers. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: William Robertson of Faidley’s Seafood has been cracking jokes with customers ever since he began working at Faidley’s in Lexington Market 41 years ago. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Lou Fleming, manager of Faidley’s Seafood, deftly shucks oysters at the raw bar. Fleming commented, “You’ve got every nationality here. That’s what’s great here.” (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Jeff Williamson, left, and Anthony Hoke, both from Portland OR, were in town for the Mid-Atlantic Nursery Trade Show at the convention center. They came to Faidley’s Seafood at the Lexington Market for crab cakes, and were not disappointed: “The freshest, best-ever crab cakes,” was their assessment. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Looking down at Faidley’s Seafood, one of the best known attractions at Lexington Market. John W. Faidley Sr, started the business in 1886, and it is now run by the third generation of the family. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Customers congregate at a few high-topped tables in the Arcade, which was added to Lexington Market in the early 1980s. Performances and special events are held here. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Blue Island Malaysian owner Sabrina Chen, far left, takes orders behind paper umbrella-topped drink cups advertising fresh fruit smoothies. She has had her business at Lexington Market since 2000. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Pedestrians head toward the East Market entrance of Lexington Market, on N. Eutaw Street. Before this addition with the glass entrance was constructed, Lexington Street continued between N. Eutaw and N. Paca Streets. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: April Washington of East Baltimore, with her son, Tommy Graham, 14, left, and a nephew, Kyrell Cooke, 3, behind her, at one of her favorite vendors, Park’s Fried Chicken. She comes here about three times a week. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Connie Parker, left, presents a popular item, the buttermilk waffle with chicken tenders, to a customer. Her sons Khari Parker, center, and Shawn Parker, right, operate Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, but she helps out. The brothers opened their stall last June in the Arcade near the Eutaw Street entrance. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Jeanette Kerner, 73, has been coming to the Konstant’s stand at Lexington Market for 54 years, and the staff knows what she likes: chili, mustard and onion on a roll, without a hot dog. Konstant’s has been at the market since 1896. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Philip Cho, at J.A. Regan, slices baby beef liver for a customer. J.A. Regan, one of three butchers at Lexington Market, was purchased by Philip Cho and his wife Grace two years ago. Philip Cho says their best sellers are slab bacon, ground round, and baby beef liver. Their customers like getting custom cuts rather than pre-packaged meat. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: A Disney-themed birthday cake for a two-year-old, at the Butter Cup Bakery, is assembled from cupcakes. The Butter Cup Bakery, and the adjacent Berger’s Bakery, are under the same ownership. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: “Long Cut” and “Short Cut “pig’s feet are offered at Amos Meats at Lexington Market. The long cut has the hock attached. Owner Ben Moon says, “It’s one of those things, you gotta have a taste for it.” (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

: Grace Cho, who purchased the J.A. Regan business two years ago with her husband Philip Cho, says she respects the history of Lexington Market, including the old signs. Cho, who is from South Korea, wasn’t familiar with items like hog maws and chitterlings before coming to the market. (Amy Davis/Baltimore Sun)

The recently announced plan to build a new home for Lexington Market on the parking lot adjacent to the current building spurred me to pay a visit to this Baltimore institution. America’s oldest public market, which began in 1782, is beset by the same challenges that face the surrounding downtown district. The bustling atmosphere of the open-air stalls was lost when the wooden sheds were destroyed in a 1949 fire. Vendors were relocated to the current utilitarian brick building, erected in 1952.

Inside, it is obvious why Lexington Markets, Inc., the non-profit that runs the market for the city, determined that a new structure was the best solution for renewal. Even its loyal supporters recognize that the cavernous building is dingy, outmoded and expensive to maintain. It will take $40 million, mostly from private sources, to construct the proposed multistory glass building. During construction, the current building will remain open.

The second challenge, beyond the cost, is how to make Lexington Market a destination that will attract new customers without abandoning the faithful clientele who depend on its affordability. Robert Thomas, the executive director of Lexington Markets, is committed to providing offerings at a range of prices. Thomas added, “We want to reassert that it is an environment that welcomes all walks of life.”

Ultimately Lexington Market will continue to be about the people: the customers drawn to the panoply of food choices under one roof, and their relationships with the hard-working vendors who serve them. Faidley’s Seafood, Konstant’s and Mary Mervis, the stalwarts who have been with the market for more than a century, will carry on their traditions. Visitors eager for a tasty new experience might want to try the market’s newest vendor, Connie’s Chicken & Waffles. Don’t forget the maple syrup.

Lexington Market: America’s oldest public market

Leave a Reply Cancel