Jun 2, 2015

HAVANA (AP) — Travel experts and upscale magazines are urging travel to Cuba before it changes. But visitors envisioning salsa in the streets and glamorous vintage cars should also be prepared to manage without ATMs, credit cards, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, seat belts or toilet paper. Here are eight tips for visiting Havana from Beth J. Harpaz of The Associated Press.

: FILE – This Dec. 19, 2014 file photo shows tourists taking photos along the waterfront promenade known as the Malecon in Havana, Cuba. If you are old enough to remember traveling without credit cards, ATMs and smartphones, then visiting Cuba will be a trip back in time. (AP Photo/Ramon Espinosa)

: Tourists eat at the paladar O’Reilly 304 in Old Havana, Cuba, Monday, June 1, 2015. When eating in Havana, stick to “paladares” – privately owned restaurants. You’ll need reservations for the best. Prices are moderate but not cheap. (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan) Tourists eat at the paladar O’Reilly 304 in Old Havana, Cuba, Monday, June 1, 2015. When eating in Havana, stick to “paladares” – privately owned restaurants. You’ll need reservations for the best. Prices are moderate but not cheap. (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan)

: FILE – This July 2, 2008 file photo shows the former home of late American writer Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), now a museum in Finca Vigia, Cuba. Havanaís best attractions include the Hemingway’s estate, the waterfront promenade known as the Malecon, Old Havana, the Museo de la Revolucion, where ìCretinsí Cornerî mocks Ronald Reagan and the Bush presidencies, and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. (AP Photo/Javier Galeano, File)FILE – This July 2, 2008 file photo shows the former home of late American writer Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), now a museum in Finca Vigia, Cuba. Havanaís best attractions include the Hemingway’s estate, the waterfront promenade known as the Malecon, Old Havana, the Museo de la Revolucion, where ìCretinsí Cornerî mocks Ronald Reagan and the Bush presidencies, and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. (AP Photo/Javier Galeano, File)

: FILE – This Dec. 28, 2009 file photo shows cabaret dancers performing at a gala celebrating Tropicana nightclub’s 70th anniversary in Havana, Cuba. The Tropicana show is on many top 10 Havana lists, for nearly $100 a ticket. (AP Photo/Franklin Reyes, File)

: FILE – In this April 24, 2008 file photo, an image of Argentine-born Cuban revolutionary leader Ernesto “Che” Guevara serves as a backdrop for a display window of sandwiches at a food store in Havana. Most eateries have ham and cheese sandwiches, called a Cuban in the U.S. but jamon y queso here. (AP Photo/Ramon Espinosa, File) FILE – In this April 24, 2008 file photo, an image of Argentine-born Cuban revolutionary leader Ernesto “Che” Guevara serves as a backdrop for a display window of sandwiches at a food store in Havana. Most eateries have ham and cheese sandwiches, called a Cuban in the U.S. but jamon y queso here. (AP Photo/Ramon Espinosa, File)

: This May 17, 2015 photo shows a shell of a building with the sky visible behind it in downtown Havana, Cuba. The travel industry is promoting a romantic vision of Havana as frozen in time but the reality is not always so pretty. (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz) This May 17, 2015 photo shows a shell of a building with the sky visible behind it in downtown Havana, Cuba. The travel industry is promoting a romantic vision of Havana as frozen in time but the reality is not always so pretty. (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz)

: FILE – In this Dec. 3, 2013 photo, a self-employed fruit and vegetable vendor waits for customers in the street in Havana, Cuba. When traveling to Cuba bring cash to change into convertible pesos, also known as CUCs (not CUPs, the currency used by locals), and budget carefully. There are only a handful of ATMs in Havana and U.S. bank cards arenít currently accepted. (AP Photo/Franklin Reyes, File)

: FILE – In this Jan. 16, In this May 24, 2015 photo, a message believed to have been written by late U.S. novelist Ernest Hemingway, hangs framed at the bar inside La Bodeguita del Medio in Old Havana, Cuba. The writing reads: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan) In this May 24, 2015 photo, a message believed to have been written by late U.S. novelist Ernest Hemingway, hangs framed at the bar inside La Bodeguita del Medio in Old Havana, Cuba. The writing reads: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan) 2015 photo, the driver of a collective taxi steers his classic American car through Havana, Cuba. Travel experts and upscale magazines are urging travel to Cuba before it changes. But visitors envisioning salsa in the streets and glamorous vintage cars should also be prepared to manage without ATMs, credit cards, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, seat belts or toilet paper. (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan, File) FILE – In this Jan. 16, In this May 24, 2015 photo, a message believed to have been written by late U.S. novelist Ernest Hemingway, hangs framed at the bar inside La Bodeguita del Medio in Old Havana, Cuba. The writing reads: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan) In this May 24, 2015 photo, a message believed to have been written by late U.S. novelist Ernest Hemingway, hangs framed at the bar inside La Bodeguita del Medio in Old Havana, Cuba. The writing reads: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan) 2015 photo, the driver of a collective taxi steers his classic American car through Havana, Cuba. Travel experts and upscale magazines are urging travel to Cuba before it changes. But visitors envisioning salsa in the streets and glamorous vintage cars should also be prepared to manage without ATMs, credit cards, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, seat belts or toilet paper. (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan, File)

: This May 16, 2015 photo shows the exterior of El Floridita, a bar and restaurant frequented by Ernest Hemingway that’s a popular stop for tourists in Old Havana, Cuba. The local great air-conditioning, icy daiquiris and a bust of Hemingway, perfect for selfies. (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz) This May 16, 2015 photo shows the exterior of El Floridita, a bar and restaurant frequented by Ernest Hemingway that’s a popular stop for tourists in Old Havana, Cuba. The local great air-conditioning, icy daiquiris and a bust of Hemingway, perfect for selfies. (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz)

: This May 14, 2015 photo shows Pedro Tejeda Torres, left, and Jonathan Nyamudihura, owner and chef at Cafe Ajiaco in Cojimar, just east of Havana, Cuba. The privately owned restaurant specializes in offering refined versions of traditional Cuban recipes. (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz) This May 14, 2015 photo shows Pedro Tejeda Torres, left, and Jonathan Nyamudihura, owner and chef at Cafe Ajiaco in Cojimar, just east of Havana, Cuba. The privately owned restaurant specializes in offering refined versions of traditional Cuban recipes. (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz)

: FILE – In this March 20, 2009 file photo, US curator Alberto Magnan, center, speaks on his phone behind the “New Mount Rushmore” sculpture at the National Museum of Fine Arts in Havana, CUBA. The piece is part of the “Chelsea Visits Havana” exhibit, the largest collective display of contemporary American art in Cuba in nearly a quarter-century. (AP Photo/Javier Galeano, File)

: This May 17, 2015 photo shows the El Floridita bar decorated with a statue of writer Ernest Hemingway, also pictured on the wall in a photo with Fidel Castro, in Old Havana, Cuba. For a drinking tour, consider Ernest Hemingwayís advice: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.î (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz) This May 17, 2015 photo shows the El Floridita bar decorated with a statue of writer Ernest Hemingway, also pictured on the wall in a photo with Fidel Castro, in Old Havana, Cuba. For a drinking tour, consider Ernest Hemingwayís advice: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.î (AP Photo/Beth J. Harpaz)

: FILE – In this Dec. 14, 2008 file photo, a man walks past a a Soviet tank in front of the Museum of the Revolution in Havana, Cuba. The Cuban revolution triumphed on Jan. 1, 1959 after dictator Fulgencio Batista fled the country and Fidel Castro and his band of rebels descended from the island’s eastern mountains, where they waged a guerrilla war against government troops. (AP Photo/Javier Galeano, File)

: A vendor sells Ernesto “Che” Guevara T-shirts and other souvenirs in Old Havana, Cuba, Monday, June 1, 2015. Travel experts and upscale magazines are urging travel to Cuba before it changes. But visitors envisioning salsa in the streets and glamorous vintage cars should also be prepared to manage without ATMs, credit cards, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, seat belts or toilet paper. (AP Photo/Desmond Boylan)

IF YOU NEED IT, BRING IT

I forgot to bring my toothbrush to Havana. It took me three days to find a new one.

Granted, I was in a “casa particular,” a Cuban homestay booked through Airbnb in a rundown part of town. Street vendors sell Che Guevara T-shirts and tropical fruit. But good luck buying sunscreen or Band-Aids. The fancy hotels sell some things in shops onsite, of course, but Havana just doesn’t have many stores. Even Harris Brothers, a market on Monserrate at O’Reilly Street, isn’t overflowing with consumer goods — though you can buy souvenir bags of coffee.

Public bathrooms aren’t bad, but I was glad I’d brought a roll of toilet paper in my bag.

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HUSTLED IN HAVANA

“Happy holiday, lady!”

This cheerful salutation greeted me as I walked past crumbling buildings and rubble-filled streets in many sections of Old Havana. Blonde, 5 foot 10, map in hand: Yeah, I stood out. But conversations with overly friendly strangers often devolved into shakedowns. They wanted to sell me cigars or exchange my dollars. Could I buy them drinks or give money for their children?

Violent crime in Havana is rare. I never felt threatened — just hassled.

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LOOKING FOR LOGIC IN ALL THE WRONG PLACES

For my flight home, I got to Havana’s airport at 5:30 a.m., just like the paperwork specified. Too bad the airport didn’t open until nearly 7 a.m.

I also went to the famous H. Upmann cigar factory for a tour, only to be sent to a different location for a ticket. There I was told, “There are no tours today, but we can sell you a ticket for tomorrow!”

And so it went. Havana is not always a logical place.

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MONEY

Are you old enough to remember traveling without credit cards, ATMs and smartphones? Then visiting Cuba will be a trip back in time. Bring cash to change into convertible pesos, also known as CUCs (not CUPs, the currency used by locals). And budget carefully: There are only a handful of ATMs in Havana and U.S. bank cards aren’t currently accepted.

On paper, one U.S. dollar is worth one CUC, but the Cuban government takes a 13 percent fee, so you get 87 cents for your dollar. Privately, Cubans may offer 90 cents or more on the dollar; be careful whom you trust.

I have MasterCard, Visa and American Express cards, but none could be authorized for use in Cuba in May. Even when the rules change (or if your card is from a non-U.S.-bank), businesses rarely accept plastic.

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WI-FI

Cuba’s offline culture makes trip-planning complicated. It takes days to confirm arrangements because most Cubans can’t check email from home. Automated online reservations are rare.

If you must go online in Havana, hotels sell Internet cards for lobby Wi-Fi for $4 or $5 per 30 minutes. Even then, though, the Wi-Fi may not work.

A paper map is essential; drivers don’t have GPS and there’s no Googling an address on the fly.

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ABOUT THOSE CARS

Cuba’s vintage cars sound picturesque — until you’re in one with no seat belts, no air-conditioning in 90-degree heat, broken windows, belching smoke and doors that open in transit.

The old cars aren’t just American. One 20-something driver told me he inherited his 1981 Russian-made Moskvitch car from his grandfather, who was awarded the car for being a good worker.

Havana’s official, government-owned taxis seemed to be in better condition than privately owned cars — though tourists are routinely overcharged. Meters supposedly exist, but I never saw one.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Government-run cafeterias in public places like museums are dreadful. Stick to “paladares” — privately owned restaurants. You’ll need reservations for the best. Prices are moderate but not cheap; food is good but not outstanding. My best meals were at 304 O’Reilly (the restaurant name is also the street address), which offers trendy, light fare (terrific ceviche, lobster and pasta), and Cafe Ajiaco in Cojimar (Calle 92, number 267), whose owner showcases what he sees as the best of traditional Cuban cuisine.

A safe bet in most eateries is a ham and cheese sandwich — called a Cuban in the U.S., but jamon y queso here. Cafe con leche is uniformly superb, as is tropical fruit.

For a drinking tour, consider Ernest Hemingway’s advice: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” The handwritten quote, allegedly scribbled by Hemingway himself, is framed at La Bodeguita del Medio over a bar mobbed with tourists. The Floridita is nicer: great air-conditioning, icy daiquiris and a bust of Hemingway, perfect for selfies.

The Hotel Nacional’s outdoor bar is lovely, on a lawn with a view of the sea. Have a Cuba libre (rum and cola, but not Coke) or a Cristal beer, then check out the photo gallery of famous guests — mobsters and Hollywood celebs.

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ATTRACTIONS

Havana’s best attractions include the waterfront promenade known as the Malecon, Old Havana, Hemingway’s estate at Finca Vigia and the Museo de la Revolucion, where “Cretins’ Corner” mocks Ronald Reagan and the Bush presidencies. The stunning Cuban collection at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes ranges from colonial portraits to 20th century political pop art.

The Tropicana show is on many top 10 Havana lists. If spending nearly $100 to see skinny dancers in see-through bodysuits with sequin pasties and chandeliers on their heads sounds fun, by all means, go. Otherwise, try the music scene at Casa de la Musica in Central Havana.

A reality check in Cuba

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